On the Isle of Wight's west coast, close to busy Yarmouth, Freshwater sits in the heart of Tennyson Country, where the Victorian poet lived for decades. The shoreline around the small town is dotted with beaches accessed via steps leading down from chalk cliffs. Freshwater Bay is the area's hub, with places to stay, eat and plan coastal adventures, while Alum Bay is the gateway to the Needles - three huge pillars of rock jutting out of the sea, with a functioning lighthouse at their end.
Alfred, Lord Tennyson wasn't the only person to have sought inspiration in Freshwater. Pioneering Victorian photographer Julia Margaret Cameron lived here, and numerous other artists and writers visited over the years.
Whether you are exploring the area's historic homes or beachcombing at low tide, Freshwater offers a colourful snapshot of the island's quieter side. For more: visitisleofwight.co.uk.
Take a train to Lymington Pier (on a branch line from Brockenhurst, which has connections to Southampton and London), then a 40-minute Wightlink ferry from Lymington to Yarmouth.
Freshwater is a few minutes' drive away, or around 15 minutes on the No 7 bus or the seasonal, open-top, hop-on-hop-off Needles Breezer. Buses can be infrequent, so check times on islandbuses.info. Alternatively, bicycles can be hired from Wight Cycle Hire in Yarmouth (booking essential) or Adrian's Bike Shop at The Gate café at Freshwater Bay. Cabs can be booked with Super Taxi.
On the seafront, the four-star Albion Hotel dates to the 19th century, and was relaunched last year after a multi-million-pound refurbishment. The 40 modern bedrooms (including two accessible and seven dog-friendly) are painted in muted sea shades, with coastal-inspired artworks. B&B doubles from £160, and the hotel offers discount ferry travel for guests booking directly, plus free transfers from Yarmouth.
The home of Alfred, Lord Tennyson, from 1856 until his death in 1892, Farringford sits on the southern edge of Freshwater town, a 15-minute walk from the Bay. The house is open to the public only between April and September (Tuesday-Thursday) and the grounds until 25 October (Tuesday-Saturday), but you can stay in one of the 10 self-catering cottages at any time of year. They vary in size, and half sit around a grassy courtyard behind the main house, while the rest are on the edge of the estate. All allow free access to the gardens and have modern interiors; some are dog-friendly. Two nights in a cottage for two from £188.
Enjoy an early-morning dip before heading to the Albion for breakfast. The hotel is practically on the beach, so, weather permitting, choose a table on the sea-view terrace.
Afterwards, take the path directly behind the hotel car park leading to the National Trust-managed Tennyson Down. Follow the Tennyson Trail to the Tennyson Monument, a huge granite cross.
Continue along the top of the chalk cliffs to the Old Battery, a Victorian coastal defence, whose underground tunnel played an important part in both world wars. The neighbouring New Battery served as a secret rocket missile-testing site during the Cold War. From here you can admire views over the Solent and the Needles. This being a National Trust site, the Old Battery has a tearoom for drinks and sandwiches.
Walk back via the Needles Landmark Attraction, which has shops and a funfair, plus places for refreshments. From here you can take steep steps or a chairlift down to Alum Bay, famous for its multi-coloured sands, created by iron minerals in the rock.
For a closer look at the Needles and lighthouse, hop in a boat for a 15-minute fast cruise or 20-minute slower version.
At the Sand Shop - part of the Needles Landmark Attraction - you can pick a glass container and fill it from a choice of sands to create your own multicoloured souvenir.
At Totland Bay, The Waterfront Bar & Restaurant is positioned on the seawall. Sit out on the terrace or inside by one of the picture windows to watch the sunset.
On the seawall at Colwell Bay you will find The Hut. It is the island's coolest restaurant, with a beach-club atmosphere, thanks to the lively music, coastal décor, retractable roof and floor-to-ceiling windows that are opened in good weather. The menu is mainly seafood, some with an East Asian twist, but there are also meat and plant-based options. Booking essential.
An hour's walk from Freshwater Bay, Compton Bay is a two-mile stretch of golden and dark sand that's great for swimming and surfing. Paddleboards can be hired at The Gate Café.
At Hanover Point, where Compton Bay meets Brook Bay, dinosaur footprints are visible at low tide. Further along, there's the possibility of finding fossils among the stones.
Between the Albion and Farringford, Dimbola Tea Room is renowned for its cream tea, with freshly baked scones and clotted cream (booking essential).
If time allows, visit the adjoining Dimbola Museum & Galleries. Once the home and studio of Julia Margaret Cameron, it showcases her photography as well as pictures from the 1970 Isle of Wight Festival and a David Bowie exhibition with photos by Terry O'Neill.