Hair braiding is a beauty rite of passage for many people of color, including me. I've been wearing braids in my 4A hair since before I can remember, and adding extensions to them since around eighth grade. Not only does a fresh set of cornrows, twists, or box braids help cut getting ready time in half, but wearing these popular looks -- also known as protective styles with or without the addition of extensions -- can give your natural hair a break from the ongoing manipulation of combs, brushes, heat styling, and more.
While braided protective styles can be beneficial for a number of different reasons, experts note that a truly successful look ensures that the hair growing out of your scalp is always the main priority. "Protective styles should truly protect, not just look good," celebrity hairstylist Vernon François tells Bazaar. "Being intentional about scalp health, moisture, and proper technique will ensure your braids support both style and hair longevity." Ahead, I spoke with François and other top hair professionals for a full breakdown of some of the most frequently asked questions about braiding, along with some of the best products and techniques to incorporate into your routine before, throughout, and after styling with added hair.
Some stylists may offer a wash and blow-dry option with their services, but it's important to take hair prep work into your own hands for those who don't. "When preparing for a braiding session, it's important to have freshly shampooed, conditioned, and detangled hair," celebrity stylist Nai'vasha Grace explains. Braiding specialists can minimize damage to your natural hair and ensure parts are even when it's clean and detangled ahead of an appointment. Plus, taking time for prep ultimately helps braids last longer while allowing your scalp and resting hair to thrive through the duration of your style.
Synthetic braiding hair has recently come under scrutiny after a Consumer Reports lab investigation revealed the existence of low-level volatile organic compounds (or VOCs), including lead and acetone, in several popular synthetic extension brands. However, as the tests in question are primarily based on oral exposure to chemicals as opposed to dermal exposure, some professionals, like cosmetic chemist Javon Ford suggest that these findings aren't necessarily cause for alarm.
While human hair extensions often tend to be less chemically processed than their synthetic counterparts, there are still some benefits to choosing the latter over the former. "There are pros and cons to both," François explains. "Human hair extensions offer a softer, more natural look and feel, but can be harder to maintain in braided styles, and don't always blend well with certain textures. Synthetic hair holds shape well and lasts longer, but it can sometimes cause irritation or dryness. The best choice depends on the style you're going for and your scalp's sensitivity."
Celebrity stylist Kim Kimble previously told Bazaar that ultimately, the best braiding hair to use is one that seamlessly matches your unique texture. "The hair you select is all based on the style you want, but you always want to make sure you're reaching for quality hair," she said.
Just like with any beauty look, deciding between traditionally bound box braids and knotless braids is ultimately a matter of style preference. According to experts, knotless braids are generally gentler on the hairline as they don't place as much immediate tension on the roots. "The gradual feeding-in of hair distributes weight more evenly, reducing stress on fragile edges. However, even with knotless braids, wearing them in tight ponytails or buns can still cause tension-related breakage," François notes of the trending style.
"If your scalp feels excessively sore, if you experience headaches, or if you see small bumps (also known as folliculitis) forming along your hairline, these are clear signs your braids are too tight," François advises. "You should never feel prolonged discomfort after braiding -- if you do, gently massage the scalp or ask your stylist to loosen the braids in affected areas." Grace agrees, adding that noticing a wrinkled, red, and/or extremely shiny scalp after your braids are installed can also be a red flag.
When it comes to maintaining the integrity of your natural hair in braids: "Hydration is key, but build-up is the enemy," François continues. "I recommend lightly misting your scalp and braids with a mix of water, a lightweight leave-in conditioner, and a few drops of oil, such as argan or jojoba, every few days. Instead of applying conditioner directly from your hands, use a spray bottle to evenly distribute moisture without over-saturating the hair. Additionally, cleansing the scalp with a mixture of apple cider vinegar and water can help remove residue, bacteria, and excess oils."
Along with sleeping in a silk or satin bonnet or pillowcase of the same fabrics, experts say minimal manipulation after your style is installed is a great rule of thumb for keeping frizz at bay. You can also keep flyaways at a minimum with the help of a flexible mousse or lightweight braid refresher spray in addition to a few swipes of edge control along your hairline.
"Yes, but with some adjustments," François notes. "Diluting your shampoo with water before applying it can help cleanse the scalp without causing build-up in your braids. Conditioner should be used sparingly, preferably as a light mist rather than applied directly. Washing every two to three weeks is ideal to maintain scalp health."
While you might be tempted to keep your protective style installed for as long as possible, professionals say doing so may cause more harm than good to your natural hair. "I recommend wearing braids no longer than two months," Grace says. And for natural hair without added extensions, experts say that a maximum of three weeks is ideal. "Anything beyond that can lead to tangling, excessive build-up, and potential breakage," François adds.
Professionals suggest starting the unraveling process by lightly misting your braids with a detangling spray or using a go-to oil to add slip. "Cut your braids at their ends making sure to leave at least three inches of braid intact depending on the length of your natural hair," Grace says. Next, carefully unravel each of your braids from the ends upward, avoiding excessive pulling. Once fully undone, gently detangle with a wide-tooth comb before washing to prevent matting.
After removing braids, your natural hair is somewhat in a fragile state and in need of both moisture and strength replenishment. Experts recommend first starting with a clarifying wash to remove build-up, followed by a deep conditioning treatment, like the Olaplex No. 8 Bond Intense Moisture Mask or Curl Queen Intense Therapy Masque. "Incorporating a bond-building treatment like the Olaplex No. 3 Hair Perfector helps repair any weakened strands," François says. "Always detangle gently and allow your scalp a rest period before installing another protective style."
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